Tahiti to Bora Bora

During the second week of our very relaxing private holiday with Paso Doble on Moorea we were trying to hide on the lee of the island, but nevertheless were forced to change anchorage several times to get out of the strong southeasterly winds. We were watching the weather forecast closely for a gap in the wind to get back to Papeete, which lies across a 15 miles channel, directly in the direction the wind came from. We finally decided to up anchor at 2 am trying to take advantage of what felt like a break in the wind. By the time got out through the pass in the reef and out of the lee the wind was again 20-25kn and what the fast ferry does in 30 minutes took us just over 6 hours. The sunrise though was spectacular and looking back we saw Moorea under an amazing cloud, beckoning to come back.

September 1 was the day on the agenda to reunite again with the old crew at the quay de yachts in Papeete … and surprisingly they all turned up, together with the new ones Anabel and David from Switzerland and Tom from Australia.

On the itinerary was a journey from one end of the Society Islands to the other, from Tahiti to Bora Bora. Our first stop was Moorea and the return journey was ‘a breeze’ and an ideal introduction to get the used to sailing. 

For once on this journey we actually went back to the same place and with the benefit of the experience we knew exactly where the best places were, starting off with majestic Cook’s Bay and then a wonderful reef spot besides Opunohu Bay, well known to snorkel with sting rays and black tipped reef sharks. 

After this spectacular south pacific introduction came the longest passage for this leg, a 90 miles overnighter. The wind was still fresh and out of the southeast and after a faster than expected sail we entered the lagoon of Huahine [while checking out the reef break of course] and headed for Bay Bourayne. Huahine is just a little bit off the main track and virtually untouched by tourism, hence it has a wonderful and wild original feel and beauty.

The 18 miles crossing to Raiatea again was a fast beam reach. We entered the lagoon via the Teavamoa Pass and our first land excursion was to the Taputapuatea Marae, considered to be the father of all sacred sites in Polynesia. What a wonderfully located and spiritually impressive site to visit. Its various sections protrude out into the bay facing the pass and the trees seem to be as ancient as the stones, all protected by some fierce looking coconut crabs.

The marae reflects the special status Raiatea has amongst the Polynesian islands, one of being at the core of the most daring forays and migration voyages to other pacific islands in the past. We continued our journey north past pearl farms scattered throughout the lagoon, visiting some beautiful coral islands and exploring rivers at the end of bays with our dinghy.

Raiatea shares the reef with the smaller, historically less significant yet certainly not less beautiful island called Taha’a. Alain Plantier from Vanilla Tours is based in Hurepiti Bay and we joined him for a botanical island tour focusing

On the northwestern side of the reef beside a luxurious resort and the mountains of Bora Bora as a backdrop we found a wonderful anchorage with some spectacular snorkeling.

Next day was perfect for a downwind gennaker run to Bora Bora. The crew made their first experiences with the technique of hoisting this temperamental sail, but once up it was a special sight.

Bora Bora marked the end of our French Polynesian tour. As South Pacific’s main tourist destination it has more than its fair share of over-the-water bungalows, but one has to say it still is a stunning island with traditional local pandanus leaf weaving workshops and is offering some beautiful anchorages with the clearest water to snorkel in.

We finished the 2 week island sojourn with a dinner at Bloody Mary’s, operating since 1979 and one of the institutions on the island …